Rethinking Robusta

A conversation with Mikołaj on his new book Robusta/Canephora – A brief guide to loving it

*Let op: deze blog is eenmalig in het Engels geschreven, omdat de geïnterviewde Engels spreekt en we zijn verhaal zoveel mogelijk in zijn eigen woorden willen overbrengen.

When it comes to specialty coffee, Robusta has long been the underdog, often dismissed, generalized, or outright rejected. But Mikołaj’s new book, Robusta/Canephora – A brief guide to loving it, challenges that narrative with clarity, passion, and a much-needed counter-narrative within the specialty coffee community. The book is not only beautifully written, but it’s foundational. It sets a crucial baseline for roasters, brewers, and coffee lovers who want to understand and work with Robusta on its terms, rather than in the shadow of Arabica.

Motivation

When I asked Mikołaj what sparked the idea for the book, the answer was simple: frustration. “There weren’t any resources about the societal context of the species, the historical context, or even the technical context,” he explained. “I got really, really frustrated.” That frustration drove him into a five-year deep dive into Robusta, from roasting experiments to brewing techniques to broader questions about how we talk about this species.

What emerged is a book that not only shares Mikołaj’s roasting and brewing frameworks but also amplifies the voices of producers, scientists, sensory experts, and journalists. It’s a collective work, one that reflects the true diversity of perspectives around Robusta.

Stereotypes

The book pushes back against the reductive stereotypes that have plagued Robusta for decades: “bad,” “cheap,” “bitter.” Mikołaj pointed out the irony: “The most diverse commercially grown coffee species is being generalized under umbrella terms.”

And this simplification isn’t just inaccurate, it’s harmful. It affects producers, roasters, and the perception of entire origins. Mikołaj’s goal isn’t just to inform; it’s to invite us into a new relationship with Canephora. “My aim is really to encourage people to celebrate their diversity and the beauty, not only in the species but also in the people who are working with it.”

The people behind the research

The strength of the book lies not just in Mikołaj’s voice but in the chorus of contributors:

• Judith Konsten, a Q-Robusta and Q-Arabica grader, provides a critical foundation for understanding the sensory potential of Robusta and its grading systems.
  
• Rohan Kuriyan and Reza Nurullah, two very different producers, share intimate and contrasting views of how Robusta is grown, processed, and presented.
  
• Isabelle Mani, a journalist, examines the sociopolitical implications of Robusta, shedding light on how stigma has influenced its global reputation.
  
• Bhavi Patel, also from India, discusses how the language of tasting, shaped by culture, can create gaps and bridges in our understanding of flavor.

Each of these voices adds depth, nuance, and complexity to the story of Robusta. Together, they make this guide not only informative but also essential reading for anyone serious about coffee.

So what’s next 

When I asked Mikołaj what’s next for him and Robusta, his answer was reflective and refreshingly open-ended: “I want to keep working with Canephora. I don’t know in what capacity, but I want to be a good force in the industry.”

He admits the question of “what’s next” is always a tough one. But his passion for continued learning and evolving with the coffee community is evident. “Depending on what I learn, it kind of sets a trajectory for where I’ll go.”

The most memorable cup

So what’s Mikołaj’s favorite Robusta so far? Without hesitation, he recalls a cup from Reza Nurrulah in Indonesia: “a triple yeast, double mosto natural process.” Fermented with Liberica skins, the coffee had a pepperminty aftertaste, “like chewing gum,” he says, still sounding delighted. “It was the smartest coffee I ever had, and I’ll forever remember it.”

Final thoughts

Robusta/Canephora – A Brief Guide to Loving It is more than just a guide, it’s an invitation. An invitation to challenge bias, embrace complexity, and taste with new eyes (and tongues). Mikołaj has done the coffee world a service with this work, offering a new lens through which to view a species that has long been misunderstood.

If you’re a roaster, brewer, barista, or just someone curious about where coffee can go next, this book is a must-read. It just might change the way you think about Robusta forever.